A weekend in Limburg - September 2008

The Hague, where I am living, is a nice international city but see....it is a city...and since autumn has officially came back, every opportunity to grab fresh air and sunny light is not to be overlooked. We decided, once more, to head East (the natural backyard of the Netherlands) and we picked up the city of Tienraij in Limburg, i.e. at the german border. Contrary to what everybody thinks, the Netherlands is not entirely flat, nor does it completely lie under the level of the sea. The southern provinces, especially Limburg, display a great deal of hilly landscapes and wooded slopes, though not too steep - it is the Netherlands after all. You might have heard of Maastricht, the capital of Limburg, where a European treaty sealing the birth of the Euro was signed a little more than a decade ago...

I was just saying we chose Tienraij, a small village not too far away from the river Meuse (Maas in dutch), as our headquarters for that weekend. The Best Western Sint Joseph Hotel is situated in a historic convent which has existed since 1908, and turned out to be a great starting point for our weekend trips, as well as a very good deal! I am going to pass the crispy details of the weekend: the fire alarm drilling at 12 pm in the hotel the night of our arrival, the car getting bogged down in loose gravel...and I will focus on the great sceneries of that wonderful region.

On saturday, we went to the city of Arcen en Velden, between the Meuse and Germany, managed to cross the Meuse by ferry to get there, and visited the Kasteeltuinen park, i.e. the city castle's gardens. The sunny day did of course help in making the visit a great moment but I must say that it is one of the most beautiful park I have ever visited (last time I've said this was after visiting the Descanso gardens in La Canada, CA, in 1998). My eyes and the rest of my senses kept busy for the entire afternoon: rosarium, waterfalls, fountains, italian-style and asian-style gardens, bamboo forest, the tropical "Casa Verde" with palmtrees, bananatrees, Yucas, cactuses...not to mention all the animals: pawns, storks, monkeys, japanese fishes, swans, ducks, deers, pigs...A demonstration of birds of pray (e.g. falcons, eagles, harriers), and a slice applepie, marked the end of our almost four-hour visit. We then continued our tour of the city with the grain distillery "De IJsvogel", which still produces various Dutch gins (jenever) and liqueurs according to old recipes. The distillery is located in an old watermill from 1677, which is definitely worth the 3,50 euros entrance fee. Our dutch guide led us through the three-floor high building and gave us a great deal of details about the way flour was made (though he spoke with a very strong dutch dialect and I had to give up at some time) until the mill got closed for hygiene and safety reasons. The distillery, though feared to be closed within five years from now, is still used for producing very tasty, fruity and strong liqueurs and gins (I by the way have brought some bottles back home...). Hanna and me then strolled along the Meuse before heading for dinner in the charming and welcoming hotel Arcen.

On the following day, we headed for one of the fourteen dutch national parks: the "Maasduinen National Park". Though not as developed, as big or as well indicated as their US counterparts (which really made a big impression on me last year), the dutch national parks are part of the crown's jewel. Usually stuck between cities (the Netherlands are a small country), they always offer unexpected landscapes and the 4,500 ha "Maasduinen" park did not disappoint us in that respect. With many biking and walking paths (of which we ourselves covered about 7 km), that park is home to the sand dunes looking upon the Meuse, as well as to hundreds of hectares of woods. Day excursions can easily be launched from cities such as Wellerloi or Nieuw-Bergen. Many locations along the roads allow you to park the car and go safely for a hike without any problems. Do not forget to bring some water with you (or you'll end up like me...very thirsty). I enjoyed the hiking very much (to the great surprise of Hanna I think); I though must say that biking there must definitively be the thing to do! That will be for another time...

Pictures of this wonderful limburgse weekend can be found here .

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A Sunday on another planet - February 2008

Last weekend, Hanna and me decided to head East....more precisely toward the Hoge Veluwe National Park and the Kroller Muller museum, between Apeldoorn and Arnhem. Surrounded by the A1, A12 and A50 freeways, the national park has three entrances, all very easily accessible (I'd though be careful before using any GPS system...the roads are confusing, even for a very smart navigation device). I would advice entering the park at the Otterlo gate, especially if you consider biking inside the park from one point to another. As a matter of fact, there is no need for driving your car inside the national park. Though driving is perfectly allowed, it does not really make much sense as free (white) bikes are available (as long as supply lasts) throughout the park. Hoge Veluwe by bike is like being on another planet... The landscape is everything but what you would expect and it is such a quiet and resourcing ride in the winter. God knows I am no big fan of biking but I had great fun hopping from one spot to another. Stopping for a cultural break, and a coffee, at the Kroller Muller museum gives you the chance to check an impressive collection of Van Gogh, Monet, and twentieth century artists. If you still have some time left, I'd strongly recommend pushing your ride to the St-Hubertus Jachthuis (hunting cabin...). The view upon the lake and the house is definitely breathtaking. I've been aware of this park for quite many years and I deeply regret it took me so long to get there and enjoy its natural beauty. The Frommer's guide to the Netherlands very appropriately says that "the park shelters a wealth of nature's treasures" and "has solved its transportation issues in a unique way". Winter is a dark season in the Netherlands but Hanna and me have found the perfect spot where we can wait for spring.

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